Landed Homes

Choosing an Electrical Contractor for a Landed Home in Singapore: 10 Questions

Why a landed house is a design job before it is an installation job, what the cheapest quote quietly leaves out, and ten questions that tell you whether the firm in front of you can actually carry it.

BSH Engineering · Grade 8 LEW 28 Jul 2026 21 min read
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A landed house is the largest electrical installation most people will ever personally own — and the least supervised. No MCST, no building LEW, no managing agent checking anyone's work.

From the meter compartment at your gate to the last downlight in the attic, it is yours. Whoever you engage is the only professional judgment applied to the whole of it.

Which is why it isn't a handyman job scaled up. It's a design job — total load, cable sizing, protection grouping, earthing, lightning protection — then an installation job, then testing that proves the first two were done right.

So when three quotes come back at numbers that don't look like the same project, the useful question isn't "which is cheapest?" It's "which of these firms can actually carry a job of this class, and prove it?"

Why a landed home is a professional-grade electrical job

In an HDB flat or a condo unit, most of the installation isn't yours — the riser, the incoming supply, the building's earthing, the switchroom. Your side is small, standardised, and there is usually a second pair of eyes on any contractor who touches it.

A landed house has none of that, and it carries loads a flat never sees: several aircon zones, induction cooking, instant water heaters, a pool pump, sometimes a lift, solar with a battery, one or two EVs.

Stack enough of that and the house outgrows a single-phase supply entirely — which is why many landed homes end up on three-phase power, with a main switchboard rather than a consumer unit.

Then come the parts of the job a flat simply doesn't have.

Why the price spread is widest on landed work

More scope, more discretion, and less outside checking than any other residential job in Singapore. Two contractors can specify genuinely different installations for the same house — so unless both quotes spell out what they priced, you cannot tell which is which.

Schematic of a landed home showing the six electrical scope items a flat does not have123456
  1. 1Meter compartment at the boundary, to the utility’s spec
  2. 2Lead-in from the boundary to the house
  3. 3Main switchboard, often three-phase, with sub-boards beyond it
  4. 4Lightning protection — an air-termination system on the roof
  5. 5Earth pit and bonding, tested by measurement
  6. 6Outdoor circuits: gate, porch, pool, landscape lighting

Six line items a flat does not have. Each one is separately designed, separately priced, and separately testable — which is why a single lump sum tells you nothing.

A three-phase distribution board with main switch, residual current devices, copper busbars and harmonised brown, blue and green-yellow wiring
Item 3 in the flesh. A landed board is closer to light commercial gear than to a flat's consumer unit — main switch, residual current devices, copper busbars, load balanced across three phases. Sizing and protecting it is design work, not installation work.

When a low quote is fine — and when the saving comes out of your walls

Here is what makes landed different: the downside isn't bounded.

In a flat, a fault is one circuit and one afternoon. Behind a landed home's plastered walls, feature ceilings and finished landscaping, the fault is the cheap part — finding it is what costs.

Undersized cable feeding a wing of the house. An earth path that measures fine on a dry day. A garden circuit that trips only in heavy rain. None of it dramatic. All of it surfacing two years in.

The saving on a keen quote is a fixed, one-time number. The exposure is not.

That said, a low quote is not automatically a bad one. Some contractors are genuinely leaner — smaller office, no estimating department, fewer vehicles — and their cable is still copper, their LEW is still real, their testing still happens.

On a job you can still see and still bound, that is a fair trade. A whole landed installation is neither.

So past a certain price, ask where the saving is coming from. There are only four places it can come from:

  • The licence — who is qualified, and answerable, for the design.
  • The materials — chiefly the cable, the biggest hidden cost in the house.
  • The testing and documentation — what proves it is safe, not merely working.
  • The accountability — whether there is anyone to come back to.
The two questions that cut through all of it

Ask for the name and licence number of the Licensed Electrical Worker who will certify your installation, and the registered company name and UEN that will invoice you. A contractor who gives you both immediately, without friction, has already answered most of this guide.

Sometimes all four are present and the contractor is simply keener. Often one is quietly missing — and it is always one of the four you cannot see once the walls are closed.

The far end of the range: the one-man quote

An operator working alone with nothing registered behind them — no company, no licensed worker on the books, no insurance, no defect period, no office. That price is real, and it is low precisely because it carries none of that.

It isn’t that the person is unskilled. Plenty are highly skilled. It’s that there is no structure to absorb a mistake. If a circuit is undersized, nobody senior reviews it. If an earth is marginal, nobody tests it. If a fault appears in eighteen months, there is no company to call and no records to consult.

Many homeowners make that trade happily in the HDB market, where the scope is shallow and the loss is bounded. Then they carry it into a landed house, where neither is true.

Cheap because leaner

  • Names its LEW without hesitating
  • Names cable brand and sizes
  • Prices testing and certification as lines
  • Registered company, stated defect period
  • Simply carries less overhead than the others

Cheap because something’s missing

  • Vague on who will certify the work
  • “Wiring” as a single line, no brand, no mm²
  • Testing and documents never mentioned
  • No company, no insurance, no defect period
  • One round number, no site visit

Both columns can arrive at a similar price. Everything below is how to work out which one you’re holding.

The six things a landed job needs from a firm

Size isn't the test — structure is, and structure has a floor. Below a certain size these six aren't cheaper, they're absent:

  • Design capability. Somebody works out your maximum demand, sizes cables against load and run length, grades the protective devices so a fault trips the nearest breaker and not the whole house, and designs the earthing. On a heavy house this is the difference between an installation with headroom and one already at its limit on handover day.
  • A licensed worker settled in the firm — not a stranger engaged for the signature. The LEW who certifies your house should be the LEW who has seen it.
  • Supervision, meaning somebody reviewing work they didn't do themselves — and enough crew to hold a programme when the ID, the aircon contractor and the plumber all want the same ceiling void in the same week.
  • Coordination. The electrical scope collides with everything: reflected ceiling plans, aircon condensate and refrigerant runs, plumbing chases, the pool, the gate, the lift. A firm that has done this before sequences it; one that hasn't discovers it.
  • Documentation as a habit, not a favour — produced because that's how the company works, not because you had to ask.
  • Longevity and cover. Insurance, a stated defect liability period, and a company likely to still exist when that period is being tested. This is the one you cannot verify at handover and the one that matters most later.
Six things, six questions

Every one of them is something you can ask about directly — and the answers arrive in seconds, or they don't arrive at all. That difference is most of what you are trying to find out.

The licence isn't paperwork — it's who is legally answerable

An LEW licence is a personal government licence, not a trade certificate or a “certified electrician” badge. One named individual puts their own name on your installation and carries the consequences. Formally: electrical installation work must be carried out by, or under the supervision of, a Licensed Electrical Worker licensed by the Energy Market Authority.

That matters in three practical ways, none of them administrative:

  • Design judgment, not just installation. Cable sizes, device ratings, how load is spread across circuits and phases, the earthing arrangement — all decided before anyone pulls a wire, and precisely what a licence is for.
  • Sign-off you will need later. LEW testing and certification is what the utility looks for before supply is turned on, what your insurer will ask about after an incident, and what a buyer's lawyer will ask for when you sell.
  • Legal exposure that isn't only the contractor's. Doing electrical work without the required licence is an offence under the Electricity Act — and it is also an offence for an owner or occupier to knowingly engage someone who isn't permitted to carry it out. "Knowingly" is doing real work in that sentence, and the way you stay on the right side of it is to ask for the licence and check it.
Verify it yourself — it takes two minutes

EMA publishes a searchable register of every licensed electrical worker. Ask for the LEW's name and licence number, then look them up. Every LEW also carries a licence card with their photo, name and licence number — asking to see it is completely normal, and no honest contractor minds being checked.

Check a licence on EMA ELISE

On grades, for bigger houses: a large bungalow on a 3×100 A supply is roughly 69 kVA, and a Grade 8 licence covers design up to 150 kVA — so nearly every landed home in Singapore sits inside that tier with better than double the headroom. Ask which grade is signing and what ceiling it carries. Anyone who can’t answer that cleanly shouldn’t be designing it.

The cable in your walls: what "cheaper wire" actually means

Cable is the largest material line in a house rewire — and the easiest thing in the job to substitute, because within a week it is buried in a wall and nobody audits it again.

Two substitutions are worth guarding against. One of them is illegal.

Copper-clad aluminium (CCA) is an aluminium conductor with a thin copper coating, so the cut end and the terminal look like copper. That is the point of it.

It is also prohibited. The Electricity (Electrical Installations) Regulations bar cable with aluminium conductors in any installation used, wholly or partly, for domestic purposes — and a copper-clad conductor is an aluminium conductor under a copper skin. Not a grey area, and the prohibition binds whoever uses it, not only whoever sold it.

Why it matters physically: aluminium creeps under a screw terminal and moves more with temperature than copper. Connections gradually loosen. A loose connection carrying real current becomes a hot joint — and hot joints inside walls and boards are how electrical fires start.

Undersizing is the quieter one. 2.5 mm² where the design calls for 4 mm² — identical to look at, cheaper per metre, and it works right up to the afternoon the circuit is finally loaded to what it was designed for. Sizing is a calculation under SS 638, not a matter of habit.

Proper cableCopper-clad aluminiumUndersized
ConductorCopper throughoutAluminium under a copper skinCopper, but the wrong mm²
Current capacityAs designedLower for the same size, runs hotterBelow the design load
Over a long runVoltage drop as calculatedMore voltage dropMore voltage drop
Legal statusCompliantProhibited in homesNot compliant with SS 638
How you spot itSheath printing, copper strandsSilver under a nicked strandOnly from the mm² in the quote
What goes wrongTerminals loosen, joints run hotFails when finally loaded
All three look identical once they are in a wall. Only the quote tells you which one you bought — which is why the brand and the mm² belong on paper.

The same logic covers everything that ends up hidden — the protective devices, the board, the isolators, the outdoor enclosures. A residual current device is the part of your installation whose entire job is to save a life. It is not a place to accept “or equivalent”.

So make the quote checkable: cable brand and mm² per circuit, brand and rating for the board, the MCBs and the RCD. A quote that names nothing cannot be compared against one that names everything — ask for the detail before you compare prices at all.

You can check this on site — once

While the walls are still open, ask the contractor to show you a cable drum and a cut end. Proper fixed-wiring cable is printed along its sheath with the maker, the size and the standard, and the strands of a copper cable are copper the whole way through — a strand showing silver under the copper is aluminium. Ask them to show you rather than handling cable yourself, never on a circuit that could be live, and do it before the plasterer has been.

Ten questions to ask every contractor you meet

Ask all ten, of everyone, and compare how fast the answers come. Questions 3, 6 and 10 are the ones a lone operator genuinely cannot answer, however skilled they are.

  1. 1.Who is the LEW who will certify this, and what is the licence number?
  2. 2.What is the company name and UEN, and how long has it been trading?
  3. 3.Can I see the load calculation, and who did it?
  4. 4.What cable brand, and what size in mm² per circuit?
  5. 5.Are earthing and lightning protection separate priced lines?
  6. 6.Who supervises on site when the LEW is not there?
  7. 7.What tests will you do, and do I get the results and the certificate?
  8. 8.Do I get a DB schedule and a marked-up as-built at handover?
  9. 9.How long is the defect liability period, and what does it cover?
  10. 10.Can I see a DB schedule from a landed job you finished two years ago?

★ A lone operator cannot answer these three. Hesitation on them is itself the answer — and you can verify the licence from question 1 yourself on EMA’s ELISE register.

Red flags worth walking away from

A single round all-in figure with no breakdown. No company name, UEN or address on the quote. No site visit before quoting a whole-house scope. Reluctance to name the LEW, or “we’ll arrange one later”. Cash-only terms, or a large cash deposit before any work. Pressure to start immediately, or a price that expires today. And the clearest of all: “no need to test — it’s working.”

Want these ten questions as a message?

We’ll send them on WhatsApp so you can put the same ten to every contractor you’re meeting — including us. No obligation, and we don’t need your address to do it.

Send me the ten questions

The landed-only scope: outdoors, earthing and lightning

Three parts of a landed installation have no equivalent in a flat, and all three are where a cheap quote goes quiet.

  • Outdoor circuits. Landscape lighting, the gate and intercom, the pool, the car porch — permanently exposed to sun, salt air and monsoon rain. They need properly rated weatherproof enclosures and glands, cable suited to the route, and residual current protection sized for the job. Done cheaply, these are the circuits that start nuisance-tripping in the second wet season, and the reason is almost always water in an enclosure that was never rated for it.
  • Earthing. On older houses the earth path is frequently the weak link — an earth-loop impedance too high to clear a fault quickly enough. It is invisible, it makes no noise, and every other protective device depends on it. A new earth pit and bonding is a normal, honest line item, and the proof it works is a measured electrode resistance, not an assurance.
  • Lightning protection — not optional on a new build. Under the Building Control Regulations a building must be protected against lightning, and unlike headroom, natural lighting or ventilation there is no exemption for a house built for the owner's own use — BCA's own exemptions table records it as "no exemption, compliance required". The accepted solution is a system designed and installed to SS 555 to a minimum of Class III. A risk assessment decides whether your house needs a higher class than that floor, not whether you need a system at all.
Two qualifications, so you hold a contractor to the right standard

The lightning-protection duty bites on design and construction — a new build or works needing plan approval — so an existing untouched house carries no retrofit duty. And because it is a substantial cost, it should appear as its own line. A contractor who leaves it out of a new build, or prices it as a round guess, has told you they haven't done one.

A weatherproof outdoor socket with a sealed hinged cover on a garden wall, with landscape lighting after rain
A properly rated weatherproof point — enclosure, gland and protection all chosen for a wall that gets rained on for thirty years.
An air termination rod and copper down-conductor on the roof parapet of a modern house
Lightning protection is a designed system — an air-termination system, a down-conductor system and an earth-termination system, bonded together — not an accessory added at the end.

The six tests your installation must pass before handover

The difference between an installation that works and one that is safe is measurement. "It works" only means the lights come on. It says nothing about whether a fault would be cleared fast enough to stop someone being hurt — and on a house full of outdoor circuits, long runs and heavy loads, that is the entire question. A proper commissioning covers, at minimum:

  • Earthing and bonding continuity — the protective path is genuinely connected end to end, not just terminated at both ends.
  • Insulation resistance — the insulation between live conductors, and between live conductors and earth, is intact and hasn't been nicked by a screw, a nail or a careless pull.
  • Earth-loop impedance — the fault path is low enough that the breaker trips quickly when it has to. Long landed runs and older earthing arrangements are exactly where this quietly fails.
  • Earth electrode resistance — the new earth pit actually achieves the resistance it was designed for, measured rather than assumed.
  • RCD trip testing — the life-saving device trips within its rated time. The button on the front proves the mechanism moves; it does not measure the threshold or the time.
  • Polarity, correct connection and phase sequence — live and neutral where they belong at every point, and on a three-phase board the phases in the right rotation, which matters to every motor in the house: the pool pump, the lift, the aircon compressors.
The easiest line to drop, the most expensive thing to miss

Testing and documentation are the first items to disappear from a keen quote, because nothing visibly changes when they go. If a quote doesn't mention testing, certification or a distribution board schedule, assume they aren't included.

Gloved hands holding an electrical test instrument with probe leads at a residential distribution board
Commissioning happens at the board, with instruments — not by switching things on and seeing that they work.

Your handover pack: four documents, and five things to get in writing

The handover pack is the only durable record of what was done inside your walls. You should receive four things: the LEW's test results and certification; a distribution board schedule identifying every circuit, what it feeds and its breaker rating; a marked-up as-built showing where circuits, points and buried runs actually go, including anything under the driveway or in the garden; and the manuals and warranties for the equipment installed.

Without it, the next person who works on your house is guessing — opening a wall to find out what is behind it. With it, the same fault is a ten-minute diagnosis. It also travels with the property: it is the single most useful thing you can hand a buyer, and its absence is a question you will eventually be asked.

Year two is when this pays

Electrical defects rarely appear at handover. They appear in the second monsoon — a garden circuit that trips when it rains hard, a socket that runs warm, an outdoor fitting that fills with water. Some of it is nobody's fault. All of it needs somebody who can still be reached, with records they can still read.

Get these in writing before you sign

  • The defect liability period — how long, and what it covers. A period on the quote is a commitment; "we’ll take care of you" is not.
  • A company line to call, not only one personal mobile.
  • Whether the certifying LEW is a settled part of the firm or engaged for the signature — ask them to tell you which.
  • Insurance: public liability, and work injury cover for the people on your property.
  • A payment schedule tied to progress milestones, rather than a large sum up front.

Data, wifi and CCTV: do it at first fix

Ask landed homeowners what they would do differently and the same handful of regrets come up — and almost none of them are about power.

  • Wifi that dies upstairs, because everything runs wireless off one router near the front door. Thick walls, reinforced slabs and three storeys defeat any single router; the fix is a cable to an access point on each level, and the only cheap time to pull it is now.
  • No data outlet where the study, home office or TV wall finally ended up.
  • No cable to the gate, the intercom, or the positions the cameras were going to go — so the cameras end up wherever a wire could be surface-run afterwards.
  • No proper home for the equipment: router, switch, recorder and fibre termination stacked on a shelf in the store room, hot, dusty and unlabelled, instead of in a small ventilated rack.
  • No spare capacity — no draw wires, no spare conduit — so every future addition becomes a surface trunk on a finished wall.
A wall-mounted network communications rack with patch panel, Cat6 cabling, switch and ventilation fan in a utility cupboard
A small ventilated comms rack in a cool cupboard: patch panel, switch, router, everything labelled. The alternative is a shelf in the store room — and you only get to choose once.

Decide these at first fix, not after

  • Cat6 / Cat6A from one central point to each level and to the access-point positions
  • Cable and power to the camera positions, the gate and the intercom
  • A small ventilated comms rack in a cool, accessible cupboard, with its own power point
  • Conduit and draw wires to anywhere you might want something later
  • Lighting-control and landscape-lighting wiring, and an EV charger circuit left ready even if the car comes later

All of it shares the same containment, wall chases and ceiling voids as your power wiring. Pulled at first fix it costs a fraction, and nobody drills the same wall twice.

On the demarcation: BSH installs the structured cabling, containment and camera power, terminates and tests the network, and builds the rack. The cameras and recording set-up are handled by a licensed security specialist — your own integrator, or one we can introduce.

How BSH approaches a landed home

We come to landed work from the commercial and industrial side. BSH has been wiring Singapore since 1993 — main switchboards, three-phase distribution and heavy-load design for offices and industrial buildings. So the parts of a landed house that stretch a residential-only outfit are ordinary work here: a three-phase supply upgrade, a large board with proper protection grouping, earthing and lightning protection on a multi-storey home.

Because we've spent this whole guide asking you to check other contractors, here is what we put on the table ourselves:

  • Two in-house Grade 8 LEWs. A 150 kVA design ceiling, comfortably above any house supply, so your certification never depends on a borrowed licence. Trained electricians do the hands-on work under their supervision — ask for the name and number, and check it on ELISE.
  • Registered and certified. BCA-registered (ME05), a SCAL member, bizSAFE STAR and ISO 9001:2015 — certificates we will show you, not adjectives.
  • Named materials. Cable and equipment specified by manufacturer and size in mm², so you can check what arrives against what you agreed.
  • Itemised quotes off a site visit and your drawings, so you can see what every line is rather than one all-in figure.
  • Documentation as standard on a whole-house scope — testing, certification, a labelled DB schedule and a marked-up as-built are part of the quote, not an extra.
  • One low-voltage package. Power, data, CCTV cabling, smart lighting and EV charging, so the whole low-voltage side has one point of coordination.
  • Still here in year three. A company in its fourth decade, with an office and a phone number that will still be answered, and records that don't depend on one person.
Hold us to the same ten questions

Everything above is answerable on the spot, which is the point — we wrote the checklist knowing you would put it to us as well as to everyone else.

What to insist on, whoever you appoint

Price isn't the test — capability is. Design capability to size it properly. A licensed worker who stands behind it. Materials named on paper. Testing that proves it. Records you can hand to the next person. And a company still reachable in year three.

Six things. Ask every contractor you're meeting for all six, in writing. If you'd like ours in writing first, that takes one message.

Start with a site visit, not a price

Tell us about the house and what you’re planning — new build, rewire, A&A, or adding load to what’s there. We’ll walk the property with you, check what your supply and board can actually take, and come back with an itemised quote you can question line by line, with our LEW involved in the design before it is priced. Free, and no obligation.

Planning electrical works on a landed home?

Send us your plans or photos and we'll come back with an itemised quote — cable sizes, protection, earthing, testing and certification all visible as lines you can question.

FAQ

Do I legally need a Licensed Electrical Worker for work in my own house?

Yes. Electrical installation work must be carried out by, or under the supervision of, a Licensed Electrical Worker. Doing it without the required licence is an offence under the Electricity Act, and it is also an offence for an owner or occupier to knowingly engage someone who is not permitted to carry it out. It also affects your insurance position and the eventual sale of the property.

How do I check whether an electrician is actually licensed?

Ask for the Licensed Electrical Worker's name and licence number and look them up on EMA's ELISE register. Every LEW also carries a licence card with their photo, name and licence number, and asking to see it is normal. Note that a trade course certificate, or a general claim to be a 'certified electrician', is not the same thing as an EMA licence.

Should I use a big contractor or a small one for a landed house?

Size is not the test — structure is. A landed job needs design capability, a licensed electrical worker settled in the firm, supervision by someone reviewing work they did not do themselves, the crew depth to coordinate with the ID, aircon and plumbing trades, documentation as a habit, and insurance plus a company likely to outlast the defect period. Ask for all six by name and check them, rather than judging by the size of the van.

Is the cheapest quote always a bad idea?

Not always — but on a whole landed house the odds turn. A leaner contractor with genuinely less overhead can be honestly cheaper on a small, bounded job. Past a certain number on a whole-house scope there is not enough overhead left to remove, so the saving has to come out of the licence, the cable, the testing, or the cover after handover — the four things you cannot see once the walls are closed.

What is copper-clad aluminium cable, and how would I know if it was used?

It is an aluminium conductor with a thin copper coating, so it looks like copper at the cut end. It is prohibited in homes: the Electricity (Electrical Installations) Regulations bar cable with aluminium conductors in any installation used, wholly or partly, for domestic purposes. It also carries less current than copper of the same size, runs hotter, and loosens at terminals over time. Check while the walls are open — proper cable is printed along the sheath with the maker, size and standard, and the strands are copper right through.

Does my landed home need lightning protection?

If you are building, or doing works that need plan approval, yes. Under the Building Control Regulations a building must be protected against lightning, and there is no exemption for a house built for the owner's own use — BCA's exemptions table records it as "no exemption, compliance required". The accepted solution is a system designed to SS 555 to a minimum of Class III; a risk assessment decides whether you need a higher class, not whether you need a system. An existing house that is not being altered carries no retrofit duty.

Can I keep my existing wiring and just upgrade the board?

Only after a condition assessment. Brittle insulation, frequent tripping, or points that run warm all push toward rewiring at least the affected circuits. Old wiring colours are another signal: Singapore changed the cable colour code between 1 March 2009 and 1 March 2011, and a board mixing old and new colours deserves particular care, because blue used to be a phase colour and is now neutral while black used to be neutral and is now a phase.

How long does a landed electrical package take?

For a whole-house scope, think in months rather than weeks. First fix follows the builder and the ID, second fix follows the finishes, and testing and certification come at the end. If the supply is being upgraded, that application is usually the longest single wait in the job and should be started early. Ask for a programme with the quote, not just a completion date.

Can I live in the house while the electrical works are done?

Usually yes, on a rewire. The work is phased so essential circuits stay live — slower, and it needs planning, but you avoid moving out. On a new build or a major A&A the house is a construction site anyway. Ask how the contractor intends to phase it and which circuits stay live, and get that in the programme.

Who applies for the supply and the utility approvals?

Your Licensed Electrical Worker does, acting as your agent — you sign a letter of consent and provide a site plan. The LEW also issues the certification the utility needs before supply is turned on. You should not be filing supply applications yourself, and a contractor who expects you to has told you something about the service.

Who coordinates with my architect, ID and builder?

Nobody, unless you appoint someone. Before you sign, establish who attends coordination meetings, who marks up the setting-out, and who resolves a clash when two trades want the same ceiling void. The electrical work shares chases and voids with aircon, plumbing and the ID's reflected ceiling plan, so a contractor without the crew depth to sit in those meetings will discover the clashes on site instead.

What should I receive at handover?

The LEW test results and certification, a distribution board schedule identifying every circuit and its breaker rating, a marked-up as-built showing where circuits and buried runs actually go, and the manuals and warranties for the equipment installed. If none of it was quoted, ask for it to be — it is the only durable record of what is inside your walls, and it travels with the house when you sell.

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